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When curating a ranking of London’s top restaurants, one might expect well-known Michelin-starred venues. But, situated prominently among these food giants is a simple salonu found in a far-flung area of north London.

An Surprise Honour

This little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a prominent culinary publication. The accolade has made the proprietors totally surprised.

“I am completely astonished,” states the owner’s son, referring to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their humble place achieving such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This small shop, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its original charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” says the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the food, and this eatery certainly delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a tender quality.

It is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. When the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the savoury meat is folded securely inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in less syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and not overly sweet profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the top of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, equivalent tasting menus at high-end establishments can cost many times that figure.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is most important is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Dedication

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not train at elite establishments. “I am truly happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to resonate outside its own walls. “I think many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider significance of this culinary achievement.